AUSTRALIA-SAN FRANCISCO - MARCH 2004

Day 1 - Monday, March 1, 2004

Montreal-date line

Montreal: cloudy, 2 C Chicago: rain, 5 C San Francisco: clear, 15 C

Feeling lousy this morning, but as soon as I got up and startind walking around, I was OK. Since the weather was good, I took the 10:10 train to Dorval, and the bus to the airport - getting there in plenty of time for my flight at 13:40.

Plane about half full, and we got to Chicago a little over 2 hours later. Almost 3 hours at O'Hare, so I had plenty of time to walk around and have a snack. The 18:00 flight to San Francisco was late due to a thunderstorm in Chicago which delayed all flights for about half an hour. A beautifule 180 degree rainbow was the result.

Arrived San Francisco at 21:00 - with about a hour to spare for the 14-hour flight across the Pacific. A United 747 plane - little extra in the way of service - no meal menus or several choices such as they have on QANTAS or Air New Zealand - just "Chicken or beef?". An empty seat between my aisle seat and the window seat - we took turns using it to sleep on during the night.

Day 2 - Tuesday, March 2, 2004

Day lost.

Day 3 - Wednesday, March 3 2004

Date Line - Sydney

Sydney: partly cloudy, 25 C

A beautiful sunrise above the clouds. We arrived in Sydney at 7:30 am; customs and immigration was completed within 20 minutes.

I found the airport train station, and bought myself a "Green Travelcard" for $52.50. It was good for 7 days travel on buses, trains, and ferries within about a 20-mile radius of downtown Sydney. The airport rail line is operated privately - but is connected to the rest of the rail system. However - you pay a $10 premium ($12.50 return) to get on or get off at one of the two airport stations. So, my Travelcard cost $40 plus the $12.50 to get in/out of the airport. Apparently, airport train usage is about 1/3 of what it was projected to be.

A 15-minute ride to "Museum", and another 10 minute walk to my hotel on William St. It was now about 9:30, and my room wouldn't be ready until 10:30. I left my bag there, and went for a walk over to George St., and found an Internet cafe. Cloudy and humid weather. I checked in the hotel around 10:45, and slept for about an hour.

After waking up, I walked over to King's Cross (10 minutes), and took a train to Bondi Jct. (10 minutes), and a bus to Bondi (20 minutes). I had a long walk along the beach (it's about a mile long), and noticed that topless women seem to be tolerated anywhere on the beach (they used to be limited to one end). I took the bus back to Circular Quay (central Sydney - 35 minute ride), and had some fish and chips on the waterfront. I took the long walk (2-3 miles) back to my hotel past the Opera House and through the Botanical Gardens. Lots of bats in a couple of trees - mostly sleeping. Fed some cockatoos and other parrot-like birds (they are not in captivity, and feeding them nuts is permitted). Slept a bit more, and them walked along Oxford St. (10 minutes from my hotel), and had a bite to eat. Lots of cheap places to eat - if you don't mind mingling with the clients of the many gay bars in the area. Walked back to the hotel via King's Cross (the strip club doormen are not so aggressive this year).

Day 4 - Thursday, March 4 2004

Sydney

Sydney: partly cloudy, 25 C

Breakfast 5 minutes away near King's Cross. Eggs, ham, juice, potatos, and toast for $6. Took the train from King's Cross to Circular Quay (via Town Hall) to catch the 10:10 ferry to Watson's Bay. About a 15-20 minute ride in a fast boat a few miles along Sydney harbour. Walked along the beach and through the town and along the trail to South Head (a high piece of land at the entrance to the harbour). Great views! Also great views as I passed the "clothing optional" beach about 50 feet below the cliff.

Walked back along the ocean side of the peninsula for a couple of miles, and took a short bus ride to Bondi. More walking - along the walkway between Bondi beach and Tamaram beach (and back). Bus to Bondi Jct. station and train to hotel. A little sleep, and then some Thai food on Oxford St. Continued my walk through Chinatown, and bookstores on Pitt St. Back to the hotel about 10 pm.

Day 5 - Friday, March 5 2004

Sydney

Sydney and Katoomba: sunny, 23 C

Breakfast at the same place as yesterday. The train for Katoomba was due to leave Central Station, so I arrived at King's Cross at 8:20 for the 10-minute ride. Unfortunately, a couple of trains were cancelled, and I just barely squeezed aboard a train at 8:50. Managed to get the Katoomba train with a minute or two to spare.

Katoomba is in the Blue Mountains - a comfortable, 2-hour ride (80 miles) from Sydney. There is at least one train to/from it per hour. It is about 3,000 feet above sea level, so it was a scenic train ride. After arriving around 11 am, I took a 20-minute walk down the main street to the primary viewpoint. There is a large valley - several hundred feet deep - with rocky outcroppings such as the "Three Sisters". It's about 900 steps down to the floor of the valley (and the same number up!), but I stayed at the top and walked along the edge of the cliff. Another long walk back to the main street and lunch.

I took the 14:36 train back to Central, and walked back to the hotel. A bit more sleep, and out for more food. Bus to Bondi to see sunset and then stars. Back to hotel about 10 pm.

Day 6 - Saturday, March 6 2004

Sydney

Sydney: rain, 23 C

Breakfast at McDonald's - the closest place to eat at in a light rain.

I walked back to the hotel, and then towards the Powerhouse Museum (during a break in the rain) - about 40 minutes. I got inside just as the "real" rain started - the start of 24 hours of an almost non-stop downpour - adding up to about three inches of rain. The museum had an excellent sports exhibit, and I spent about three hours there. Out into the rain (mostly under shelter). Passed through "Paddy's Market" - a huge flea market on the edge of Chinatown, and I had a good meal in Chinatown. I walked along Pitt St., stopping by stores, to Martin Place. Then by train back to the hotel.

This was "Gay Mardi Gras" parade night on Oxford St. at 8 pm, so I took the 10-minute walk from my hotel as the rain started again. I found a sheltered spot, and watched it for about 90 minutes. Many wet people! Back to the hotel around 10 during a brief lull in the rain.

Day 7 - Sunday, March 7 2004

Sydney

Sydney: rain, 23 C

Tried a new place for breakfast near the place I had gone to a couple of mornings. More expensive, and not as good. However - it was next to an Internet cafe, so I read and sent some email.

I walked back to the hotel, and then along William St, then north towards Circular Quay. Then the rain started again. I was passing by the "Hyde Park Barracks Museum", so I went in and spent the next two hours inside. A good display of the history of sydney in general and the building in particular (built in the eraly 1800's).

At noon I dashed across the street to the underground train station (St. James) entrance - only to discover water about 6 inches deep blocking access to the corridor under the street. Back into the rain, and two blocks over to Pitt St. - the main shopping street. I spent most of the afternoon in stores, and then Chinatown for a meal - mostly under shelter. After eating, the rain finally stopped, so I walked to Circular Quay (30 minutes) and took the 25-minute ferry ride to Manly. Walked alng the beach for a half an hour or so, had the mandatory ice cream, and took the ferry back.

Bus to Bondi at sunset - lots of surfers out tonight. Bus back to Oxford St. for something to eat, and walk back to hotel about 10 pm.

Day 8 - Monday, March 8 2004

Sydney

Sydney: sunny, 26 C

Breakfast at the "original" place. 30-minute walk to Circular Quay, and took the 9:15 am ferry to Taronga Zoo (10 minutes). The Zoo is located on a hillside, so I took a bus to the "top" entrance, and worked my way down to the bottom almost four hours later. Good Australian exhibit. Ferry back to Circular Quay, and then a ferry to Watson's Bay. Walked around a little there, and took the next ferry back.

Train to Central Station, and walk to Chinatown and another good meal. Back to Circular Quay - just in time to see a huge cruise ship leaving (for Singapore and Hong Kong) - over 80,000 tons. Bus to Bondi, and a long walk. Back to hotel about 10.

Day 9 - Tuesday, March 9 2004

Sydney-Melbourne

Sydney: sunny, 28 C (39 C later) Melbourne: cloudy, 22 C

Up early to catch a flight to Melbourne, so I took a train at 7:30 to the airport, and had a "big breakfast" at McDonald's. Although this was a domestic flight, I had to go through the international terminal, passport control, etc. - since my flight was the last leg of a LA-SYD-MEL route. As it turns out, the LA-SYD segment never arrived, since the plane had "problems" four hours out of LA and had to return. So I was on a 747 with probably more staff than passengers (it would return to Sydney, and back to LA). By 11 I was on the ground in Melbourne, and in my hotel shortly after noon. The hotel was in a relatively new development on the south shore of the Yarra River - a short walk from everything. A nice waterfornt walkway was on both sides of the river. I walked to the "State Library of Victoria" and saw part of their huge chess collection (third largest in the world) - about a dozen chess sets to play or analyze on. After about an hour there, I walked through the nearby Carlton Gardens, back to the Town Hall, where I bought a 7-day transit pass. I took a tram to Prahan, and visited a couple of good book stores. Had something to eat, and took a train (much faster!) to Spencer St. Had a quick look in the Casino, and a 15-minute walk along the river to my hotel.

Day 10 - Wednesday, March 10 2004

Melbourne

Melbourne: sunny, 22 C

Big buffet breakfast at the hotel. I ended up having breakfast every morning there - not included with my room, but worth the $10 or so. About 10 am, I walked (30 mins.) along the riverside to the 1956 Olympic site. I was able to walk right into a smaller stadium, and onto the field. Then across the street to the "Rod Laver Tennis Centre". Two retractable-roof stadiums, and many smaller outdoor tennis courts - all used for the Australian Open. I had a tour of the main tennis stadium (which is also used for rock concerts, etc.). Took a train (5 mins.) back to Flinders St. and a tram (30 mins) south to St. Kilda. I had a good Greek meal there, and walked along the beach to Port Melbourne - several miles to the north. The "Spirit of Tasmania" was in port - soon to make its overnight run to Devonport, Tasmania. Took a tram back to the city, and another along Brunswick St. and visited the Melbourne Chess Club. Not in a classy part of town, but they own their building. I had a long talk with the club's treasurer. I left about 9:30 pm, and a 45-minute walk back to my hotel.

Day 11 - Thursday, March 11 2004

Melbourne

Melbourne: sunny, 22 C

Another hotel breakfast. I walked across the bridge to Flinders St. station and took the 0856 train to Belgrave (50 miles or so out of Melbourne). An hour later, Arrival at Belgrave - a small country suburb in the green hills - about an hour later. At the end of the station platform, I boarded "Puffing Billy" - a narrow-guage steam train 20 cars long for its two-hour trip to Gembrook 25 miles away. A very scenic trip through fertile hilly countryside - lots of ferns. I had two hours in Gembrook (population: probably about 100), so I walked around, had something to eat, and talked to fellow passengers. At 1420, we began the return trip - arriving in Belgrave at 1615. I took the 1644 train back to Melbourne, and walked to Chinatown for dinner. Then to Carlton Gardens, and an ajoining IMAX cinema, and a 3-D movie "under water". Walked back to the hotel along Lonsdale (good Greek pastries!) and Collins.

Day 12 - Friday, March 12 2004

Melbourne

Melbourne: partly cloudy, 21 C

Breakfast at the hotel. Walked over to the "Telstra Dome" (retractable roof, 55,000 seats), and took a tour which lasted over an hour. (there were only 3 of us on the tour). Walked over to Queen Victoria Market - as large as Sydney's big market, and had a bite to eat. Then - through Flagstaff, Carlton, and Fitzroy Gardens, and back to the hotel. Then I walked around the big department stores and bookstores, and a walk along the riverbank.

Day 13 - Saturday, March 13 2004

Melbourne

Melbourne: partly cloudy, 21 C

Breakfast, and back to the Telstra dome, where I bought a ticket for tonight's Australian Rules football game between St. Kilda and Geelong (both more or less suburbs of Melbourne). I took a tram to Albert Park (where the Grand Prix had been held the weekend before) adn walked around. They were still busy dismantling grandstands, etc. Then to St. Kilda - with the object of going to the Elwood Chess Club, but it turns out it would have taken me another half hour to walk there (and another half hour back). So I walked along the main street and had something to eat; along the beach for a bit; then a tram back to the hotel. To the Telstra Dome, and got a decent "general admission" seat. Although this was an exhibition game, almost all the seats were taken by the time the game started. St; Kilda came from behind to win 98 to 76, and their fans went wild (about the same number supported Geelong). Walked back to the hotel about 11 pm.

Day 14 - Sunday, March 14 2004

Melbourne

Melbourne: sunny, 23 C

Breakfast at the hotel. A two-minute walk to the boat which would take me to Williamstown - about 45 minutes away. It is a small historic town across Philip Bay from St. Kilda (south of Melbourne). I arrived around 10:30 - lots of time to explore the town and the beach. Lots of places to eat, and I had a snack. I took the 2 pm ferry for the 20-minute ride across the bay to St. Kilda. More walking around - mostly trying to find the Elwood Chess Club - but it was too far away. Had some Indian food. I took a tram back to my hotel, did some Internet work, and checked the next day's "Skybus" service to the airport. A tram to South Yarra, and broused more book stores, and a train back to Finders St. Walk around the Casino, and then to bed.

Day 15 - Monday, March 15 2004

Melbourne-Sydney-San Francisco

Melbourne: sunny, 29 C San Francisco: sunny, 26 C

Last breakfast at the hotel. Took a 9 am bus to the airport - arriving in plenty of time for my 12:55 flight to Sydney. The the long flight to San Francisco - leaving at 3:15 pm, and arriving in S.F. at 9:30 am the same day! A quick trip through Customs, and took the BART train ($4.95) to downtown. Unfortunately, there was a half-hour delay due to an "incident involving a client and a train" - but I arrived at Powell St. at 10:30. The warmest March 15 in history! I bought an all-day transit pass for $9, and took a cablecar to Fisherman's Wharf. I took a "Bay Cruise" - sailing under the Golden Gate bridge. Then - a streetcar ride to the old "Ferry Building" where I had something to eat. Another ride down Market St. to the end of the line, passing through some rather "gay" parts of town. Back to Powell St. and Union Square where there were about 20 chess tables on the sidewalk - almost all in use. Back to Fisherman's Wharf to see the 700 sea lions basking on the old boat docks. Bought a digital camera. Cablecar back to Union Square - many of the same chess players still there several hours later. Took a BART train about 8 pm back to the airport for my 11:35 flight to Chicago.

Day 16 - Tuesday, March 16 2004

San Francisco-Montreal

Arrived in Chicago on time at 5:50 am - got a little sleep. A couple of hours roaming around the airport - lots of people there at 6 in the morning! An uneventful flight to Montreal - arriving around 10 am. Home by 11.