One of the coldest days of winter - but Ian gave me a lift to the aiport - arriving around 8 am. The previous day had been very windy, with a sharp drop in temperature. Many flights had been cancelled - including all American Airlines flights to/from New York. Hoping for better luck this day.
We left on schedule a little after 10 am on a small 45-or-so-passenger Embraer plane - an uneventful 90-minute ride to JFK airport in New York. A couple of hours to kill before my flight to Los Angeles - walked around the AA terminal and got a bite to eat (no meals on the JFK-LA flight).
While waiting to board, it was announced that the flight was overbooked, and they were offering $300, a free flight anywhere in the US, and a guaranteed seat on the next LA flight to anyone who wanted to give up their seat. Soon it was $400. I boarded - since the next flight would have made too tight a connection in LA. After boarding, it was announced that the noramlly 6-hour flight would take 7 hours due to high winds. No problem for me. My seatmate was a student from New York, visiting friends in LA. I slept on and off - ignoring the movie.
Another couple of hours in the LA airport - I had to change terminals (a short walk), so had to go through the whole process of security checking again. We left about 15 minutes late, due to connecting flights arriving late (maybe the flight from JFK that I could have taken along with getting $300 or $400?).
A long, 15 hours and 10 minutes to Melbourne. Video screens on the seatbacks - lots of choices of movies, etc. Two good meals. An empty seat beside me - didn't talk too much to the person in the 3rd seat - she slept most of the way. On arrival, went through baggage claim and Customs quickly, and took the airport bus to my hotel in Southbank (where I've stayed before).
By the time I had settled in, it was almost noon. I wasn't tired, so i walked along the south bank of the Yarra River the mile or so to the Melbourne Tennis Centre - home of the Australian Open. After checking out souvenirs, I walked around the complex, and then across the bridge to the Melbourne Cricket Ground, and back into the city. Spent about an hour in an Internet cafe before going to the State Library of Victoria, and viewing (part of) the world's 3rd largest collection of chess publications. The library was quiet at this time of day (7 pm), so I explored it - several interesting art displays,
The sun was down when I left, and I walked around - ending up at the entertainment complex and Casino. Nothing interesting worth playing - I had fun watching Orientals putting hundreds of dollars worth of chips on the roulette tables. Blackjack, roulette, and VLT-type slot machines (not the 3-reel kind I'm used to) - they are very confusing. At about 10 pm, I walked back along the waterfront to my hotel - completing a circle I had started 9 hours earlier.
Had a big buffet breakfast at the hotel. Left the hotel around 10 am, and took a train to Williamstown (only a 5-minute walk from my hotel to the train station). Williamstown is about 30 minutes from Melbourne - but you have to change trains in Newport. Newport was the site of locomotive shops, storage of trains, etc - probably the largest in Australia. It's been cut back a lot over the years - but the area is still massive. >p> I actually got off at Williamstown Beach station - about half a mile before Williamstown. So, I was able to walk along the beach on a nice partly cloudy day. Still a little cool for the swimmers. I eventually walked to Williamstown itself - many of the buildings date back to the late 1800's. I had planned to take the ferry across the bay (4 or 5 miles) to St. Kilda - but found it only ran on weekends. Thus - I took a ferry back to Melbourne - about an hour long ride. Not too scenic - but different from the train.
After a short nap in my room, about 3 pm I took a short tram ride (plus about a 3-mile walk along the beach) to St. Kilda, where I had a good Lebanese meal. Another tram ride back to the hotel to pick up some warmwe clothes as it was cooling off.
I took a train around 6:30 to Canterbury - about 30 minutes northeast of the centre of town - and walked up the street to the Box Hill Chess Club. I was warmly received, and was asked if I wanted to play in their weekly (slow) tournament, since they were short one player. I agreed, and won brilliantly. It was close to 11 by the time I left, and was lucky to get a train within 5 minutes (next one was 30 minutes later). Back into the hotel at 11:45 pm.
After a good breakfast at the hotel, I walked across the river to the city, and fllowed a map which showed a route of many laneways (lots of outdooe cafes) and arcades. I eventually ended up at the Library - which had free Internet access. I walked over to Spencer St., and booked an airport shuttle to pick me up the next day. A short train ride back to the hotel, and a little sleep.
Another short train ride to Windsor, and a long walk up Chapel St. - lots of stores and food. A tram ride to St. Kilda, and more walking along the beach - thena tram back to my hotel.
In the evening, I took a tram up Brunswick St. and had a quick visit at the Melbourne Chess Club. Only one person there - the rest were out eating. I didn't stay around - walked down Brunswick St. and took a tram to the Casino. Had a snack in the complex, and walked back to the hotel.
A cool morning in Melbourne - but it was going to be 39 degrees that afternoon. After breakfast, I took the shuttle to the airport, and my 10:10 am, 90-minute flight to Adelaide. A 30 minute time change as well.
Upon arrival in Adelaide, I found the hotel shuttle which dropped me off at the door of my hotel. Sorry - we have plumbing problems, and we have booked you in our sister hotel a few blocks away. No problem - they paid for the taxi, and it was only a 5-minute ride. They also called up the Kangaroo Island tour people and re-arranged the 6 am pickup for the following morning. The "Saville Suites" - actually an upgrade from the "Director's Studio" where I was supposed to be.
After settling in, I walked a couple of miles around the central city - dropping into the Kangaroo Island tour place to be sure they had my pickup right, and to Australian Rail to check my upcoming train trip to Darwin. It had been raining earlier in the day - but it was clearing up. I decided to take a recommended local 30 min. bus trip to a huge mall called Tea Tree Plaza. This was via the "O-Bahn" - a "busway" in which small wheels which are mounted near the fron of the bus (on the sides) make contact with a horizontal guideway. Thus - the driver doesn't have to steer, and we did the 10 km. route at a steady 100+ km/hr. Through parkland all the way - bike paths and rivers/streams everywhere. No "escape routes" anywhere - except at the 2 or 3 "stations" - so if there was a breakdown, the whole system would shut down.
After roaming around the mall for a while, I made the return trip. Then a 30 minute tram ride to Glenelg (on the coast). The 1929-vintage trams are gradually getting replaced by Bombardier low-floor models. Walked around there for an hour or so - then the return trip. Walked over to the chess club - tournament in progress, so I didn't stay around. Saw a beautiful sunset from the West Terrace (Central Adelaide is 1.5 to 2 miles square - surrounded by North, East, South, and West Terraces - and another half mile or more of green space outside these limits). Then shortly back to my hotel.
No place to eat nearby at 6 am, so I munched on some goodies I had bought the night before. The bus was there to pick me up by 6:30 - picked up a few more passengers before dropping us all off at the main bus terminal a few blocks away. A 7 am departure for the 90-minute drive down the coast to the ferry to Kangaroo Island.
Probably about 200 passengers on board the ferry - along with a couple of dozen cars and trucks. It's a specially-designed craft that is able to withstand the odd currents in the channel. About an hour to travel the 15-20 miles - I spent most of the time on the deck - hot but very windy. KI is about 100 miles long by 30 or so wide. Buses met us at the dock for our various tours - our first stop was a honey farm. Not many bees around (they came from Italy - and it's too far for them to fly to the mainland), but the honey samples were excellent. Then to a nature park where we had lunch. Lots of kangaroos and koalas.
Then to the highlight of KI - Seal Bay. Hundreds (sometimes thousands) of sea lions gather on the beach to rest - and further along to breed. We were permitted to get to within about 20 feet of them (anyways - the smell keeps you away). After about an hour there, we witnessed a "pelican feeding" - about a hundred pelicans flew-swam into shore to be fed (by a human).
Around 5 pm, we reached our hotel in Kingscote - built in 1907. Had dinner there, and after sunset went to the main dock to see if any penguins were visible. We saw about half a dozen - at peak times of year there are hundreds of the 6-inch high species. Lots of stars visible - a lot more than in the northern hemisphere. Bed around 10:30.
Buffet breakfast at the hotel.The bus picked us up at 9 am, and our first stop was a "eucalypt oil processing plant", where eucalyptus oil is collected, processed, and used in such objects as soap. Then a trip a hundred feet underground into a series of caves. Nice and cool below ground. A short stop for lunch, and then off to Flinders Chase National Park - thousands more sea lions - but much farther away from us this time. Interesting large rock formations.
Our final stop was a "sheep dairy" - sheep are milked just like cattle, and dairy products are produced. The cheese was excellent. The sheep obediently march into their assigned stalls - never into the wrong one. Then - back to the ferry, bus to Adelaide, and dropoff at the "correct" hotel (where I was supposed to be in the first place) by midnight.
Breakfast at the hotel - it was cheap. I checked out and left my bags there, since my train wasn't going to leave until 5:15. I walked a block over to West Terrace and crossed over into the "green strip". Watched kids playing soccer for a bit - then continued northward and the green strip north of North Terrace. Railway tracks pass by here, and there was a Bombardier maintenance shop nearby. I heard cheering coming from a nearby stadium - the "ING Cup" was in progress - an interstate cricket tournament. I could have gone in for $10, but it was going to be a hot sunny day.
I crossed the Torrens River a couple of times, and ended up at the Botanical Gardens. I skipped the Zoo this time. There are many public buildings along North Terrace, so I stopped at the Library for some Internet time. Then through the University grounds and over to West Terrace. The green strip there was hosting the "Fringe Festival" so I got a bite to eat and sat on the grass to watch some shows. By now, it was 2 pm, and getting hotter. I wasn't going to have time to go to South Terrace and walk back to my hotel - I took the most direct route through Rundle Mall (several blocks of the downtown shopping area closed to traffic). Picked up my bags and took a taxi to the train station, arriving around 4 pm. I boarded shortly after - along with several hundred others - for the 2,979 km trip northward to Darwin. 27 cars long - half sleeping accommodation, and half seats, along with dining, lounge, and baggage cars.
There were 18 single bedrooms in my car - others had about a dozen double bedrooms. 2 cars down was the dining car with a capacity of 48 at tables for four. Next car was a lounge car with a bar, comfortable chairs, and large windows (no dome). Two seating for meals - I took the later one. People from all over the world - including an 85-year old woman with a cane from Edmonton - recently widowed. I sat with different people at every meal - Denmark, Italy, US, Australia. To bed around 10:30, and another hour back on the clock.
My breakfast was at 8:30, so I had time to get up leisurely, and sit in the lounge car for a bit. The vegetation was getting very spare, and the land was flat. We reached Alice Springs at 11:15, and I went on a tour to the "Desert Park. Probably a mistake - much too hot and too many flies made walking around outside quite uncomfortable. However - we had a good lunch outdoors - but on a screened-in balcony. And luckily there was an conditioned cinema showing a one-hour movie about the flora and afuna of the area. I noticed that about 2/3 of our group simply stayed there the whole two hours - whether the movie was showing or not.
Our bus then took us on a tour around Alice Springs - not exactly my idea of paradise. Back on the train by 3 - relaxation, and a great dinner.
An early breakfast on the train since we were due to arrive at Katherine at 8 am for a 4-hour stopover. Most of us opted for the Katherine Gorge cruise - covering 2 of the 13 gorges on the Katherine River - maybe 5 miles or so.
Our group filled two boats - which cruised slowly along the quiet waters. We had to scramble over rocks to change boats to cruise the second gorge - cliffs about 1000 feet high on both sides. I had done this cruise in 1994 - but that was during the "dry" season. It was now the "wet" season, and the waters were much higher.
On our return, thousands of fruit bats flew out of the trees and across the gorge. The weather was hot - but not too uncomfortable (no flies). Then - back on the bus for the 30-minute trip back to the train. Lunch in the diner, and arrived in Darwin at the schedules 4:30 pm time. The Darwin station was about 20 miles from downtown (it is near the port so freight trains can load/unload easily). A free shuttle bus deposited us at our hotels.
Darwin had had its rain for the day (it gets about an inch of rain a day in February), and the remaining clouds made it (almost) comfortable to walk around. After checking in, I walked around a large, shady park across the street that looked out over the water. In Darwin, you avoid the sun at all costs - the UV index reaches 17 ("extreme" is above 11; Montreal rarely is above 8) - and watch out for sudden blasts of rain. The clouds and the setting sun reduced this a lot - I walked around downtown and found a good place to eat. Back to my hotel by 10 pm.
Had breakfast at the hotel on the outdoor patio. Around 8:30 I went to the "fish feed" (held daily at high tide) - fish regularly gather at a nearby dock to be fed. Hundreds of catfish and others of a similar size. (there are no seagulls in Darwin for some reason).
The weather was still bearable - lots of clouds, and no immediate threat of rain - so I walked across town to the Library and used the Internet for a while. Then back to my hotel via indoor malls as much as possible - the occasional sun was brutal. Had a quick shower, checked out. and stood by the road to wait for the airport bus. Then the rains came - I was able to stand under a tree for the couple of minutes it took my bus to come. It was all over in about 15 minutes - but there was at least half an inch of water everywhere.
A small airport with domestic and international arrivals and departures sharing the same space. My plane was about 2/3 full for the 3.5 hour flight to Perth. A good meal on board - we arrived 10 minutes early (another brand new airport). Another clock change - back another 90 minutes.
Airport shuttle to my centrally-located hotel by 5 pm. I walked through the railway station to the other side to the area call Northbridge. Allegedly - Perth has more restaurants per capita than any other city in Australia - and possibly more per capita than any other city its size in the world. I had the first of many "outdoor meals" in Perth in a sidewalk cafe - quite good fish. More walking around - back to the hotel by 10.
Had breakfast in Northbridge at another sidewalk cafe. It was a 10 or 15 minute walk each way - but well worth it. $7 for a full hot breakfast. I walked down to the Esplanade (a park/walkway along the Swan River), and ended up at the WACA (Western Australia Cricket Association) stadium. I had just missed a tour - but I was able to go in and walk around a bit.
There are four free bus routes in Perth in the downtown area - I took one of them from the WACA back to my hotel (about 2 miles) - then the (not free) bus to Scarborough Beach. The bus loop was practically behind my hotel, and the ride took about 30 minutes. The beach(es) along the Indian Ocean is/are about 10 miles long - sparsely populated by people (and dogs - where permitted) - it was a weekday morning/afternoon. No smoking permitted on the beach! I walked southward several miles - until the sun came out and the sand became too hot on my bare feet. I then continued on a parallel sidewalk for a couple more miles to Swanbourne, where I caught a train for the 20-minute ride back into town.
Dinner was outdoors again in Northbridge - good Chinese food. About 7 I took the train to Shenton Park (about 10 minutes away), and walked for about 25 minutes to Drabble House, and the Perth Metropolitain Chess Club. I played chess for a couple of hours (1 and 3 minute blitz - mostly with teenagers - and me winning most of the games) - and repeated the walk and train process, arriving back in town a little after 10 pm.
Another outdoor breakfast in Northbridge. Shortly, I took the free bus the mile or so to King's Park - the largest in Perth (1,000 acres). I walked around for quite a while - mostly flat with dense vegetation. Then on a "treetop walkway" (trees were in the valley below; the walkway continued through the air at the level of the tops of the trees), and the War Memorial. Good views of the city and the Swan River.
I took the bus back into town, and went to the State Libary, and more Internet. Then I took the train to Fremantle - about a 30 minute ride. I took a 20 minute ride on the free bus there (it was getting hot outside) - ending up at the Market where I got something to eat. Back to the train an hour later, and got off at what I thought was Swanbourne (it was one stop earlier) - but the alternate stop was actually closer to the beach. Sat on the beach for an hour or so and watched people and dogs. 15 minute walk back to the train and into town.
I wanted to see a sunset over the Indian Ocean, so I waited for the Scarbourough bus - which was late. I could see the sun getting lower and lower - and I reached the beach at the last possible moment - a beautiful sunset. Had supper outdoors overlooking the beach. Bus back into the city, more walking around, and bed about 10:30.
Breakfast at the hotel - it was already 31 C outside at 8 am, and I didn't feel like walking around (it would reach 39 C later in the day). The airport bus picked me up, and I was at the aiprot by 9:30. My 4-hour flight to Sydney left on time at 11:10 - almost full.
Arrived on time in Sydney after 6 pm (3 hour time change), and I took the 15-minute train ride to Kings Cross (with an across-platform change at Central). After checking in, I decided to check out the "Mardi Gras" parade a short distance away on Oxford St. Too many people, so I couldn't see much. Two hours later, the street was a mess - beer bottles, cans, etc. I walked around a bit (with thousands of others), and had some "street food". Back at the hotel after 11.
I didn't have time to search for dining establishments that were open, so I had a Big Breakfast at McDonald's around the corner from my hotel. Then I walked the couple of miles to Circular Quay through the Botanical Gardens and the Opera House. Thre were swimming races in the harbour - lots of spectators at 8:30 on a Sunday morning.
I took a ferry to Watson's Bay - about 20 minutes eastward across the harbour. A small, sandy beach, and a few restaurants nearby. I walked along the point of land to South Head (across from North Head - near Manly) at the entrance to Sydney Harbour - via the well-attended "clothing optional" beach. After lots more walking around, I took a ferry back to Sydeny - arriving just in time to take the 1:35 pm ferry to Manly. A 25-minute ride on a 1,000-passenger ferry. I took the short walk along the main street to the beach on the Pacific Ocean side. Lots of people - had something to eat, and returned to Sydney on the 3:45 ferry.
Too many blisters on my feet, so I took the train back to my hotel, and rested for a bit. Then - to Bondi Beach via train and bus (40 minutes or so). Walked along the sand - not too bad on the feet. Watched the sun set and had good ice cream. Bus back to the city. Got off on Oxford St. to see the area I had been in the night before. Spotlessly clean! Short walk, and back to the hotel by 10.
Breakfast in a sidewalk cafe up the street from my hotel. Walked to Circular Quay through the Botanical Gardens. Lots of bats in the trees. Went to the nearby QANTAS office to check on my fights on the next day. Everything in order. Took a short ferry ride to Darling Harbour, and walked around a bit. Getting hot, so I took a train back to the hotel.
After a short nap, I took the train; then an (air-conditioned) bus to Bronte, and walked along the beach for a bit. Then the bus back to the end of the line at Central Station, and walked over to Chinatown for a good meal. It was cooling off, so I took a bus back to Bronte, and walked the several miles along to shore to Bondi Beach. Another sunset and another ice cream. Bus back to Oxford St. and walk back to the hotel by 10.
Breakfast in a sidewalk cafe up the street from my hotel (same place I was at the day before). Checked out of my hotel just before 9 and walked to St. James station near Hyde Park to catch a train to the airport (Kings Cross was closer - but it was an uphill walk, and I would have had to change trains at Central). My flight wasn't scheduled until 12:45, so I had lots of time to check in, Customs, security check, etc.
We left on time - quite a full flight - all seats with personal video screens. During the 14-hour flight, I watched three full-length moveies, and a couple of documentaries. My seatmates were from Orlando and Puerto Rico - some interesting conversations. Arrived at 6:45 am - two hours at LA - pick up baggage, go through Customs, and drop off baggage again. That was the last I saw of my checked bag until 5 days later.
Left for JFK in New York at 9:30 - empty seat beside me. Uneventful flight - arrived at 5:30 pm. Saw my Montreal flight was going to be an hour late, so I got something to eat. We left finally at 8:35 - possibly in the same small Embraer plane that I had been on 18 days before. Arrived at Dorval about 10 - it was clear after a few minutes that my bag was not on the plane. I reported it, and within 15-20 minutes after getting off the plane, I was met by Ian, and home by 11.